Archive for January, 2013

The sound of a horse trotting on tarmac is like somebody running with their high heels, clop-clop-clop clop. Our driver can speak minimal English and we cannot speak any Burmese,  so our conversation with the driver is rather limited and the conversation will involve a lot of hand gestures and expressions. We asked our driver what is the name of his horse and he said ‘Osaka’, we then asked why he named his horse after a Japanese city but I think this was too complicated to be conveyed by body movements and English, so he just shook his head and smiled. But after some pondering – I think what he was trying to say was ‘horse cart’ and we jumped to the conclusion that he was saying Osaka.

Our driver seemed to be a cruel master, he whipped Osaka  ever so often and  scold it  every other second, the scolding sound like this..’aiyaaa alaaa hooya..mama’ then something that sounded like a whine, then give the horse a whip on the side then repeat ‘ aiyaaa alllaaa hooyaa mama…’

After many rounds of ‘aaiyaa allaaa hooya mamaaa’..we arrived at Minochantha Stupa group . The whitewashed stupas were different from the temples that we visited earlier. P1010402

Extracted From : Minochantha Stupa Group (built c. 1112). The small Minochantha (also Minochanta) group features the stupa erected under orders of King Kyansittha, who had fallen seriously ill around 1112 AD. A Ceylonese king had sent Kyansittha nine relics of the Buddha as a tribute. According to the marker on the site, the king enshrined the relics in a stupa and said “I am quite old enough, with this meritorious deed may I be free from diseases, may I live a longer life. May the sasana [the Buddhist movement] be flourished. Thus this stupa was named as Min-O-Chantha.” Alas, the king died the following year.P1010410

We had to climb a few flights of stairs and then came to  an opened area and hey, we were at the same level as a pair of  white stupas…P1010408

At this level , we got to enjoy a view of Bagan numerous templesP1010409

After Minochanta, it was time for lunch, Mr Driver asked us what would we like to lunch – all of us agreed that we would like to have Myanmar food- and that was how we arrived at ‘Golden Myanmar 2’P1010414

We stepped into the cozy restaurant and a waitress told us that for 30,000K ( a bit less than RM11) we get to enjoy the Myanmar buffet. Yes, please- we would like that very muchie. Dishes of food start to appear on the table. The way the Myanmar buffer work is > free refills ! The spread include – deep fried fish and deep fried chicken, curry chicken, stew fatty pork, blanched pumpkin shoots, fried bean sprouts, a guord of some sort, pumpkin plus bean, chili paste, sourish paste. I liked the Myanmar buffet, there are so many choices, and if you don’t like one dish, there are others to choose from. Taste wise was rather nice too. (Chinese)Tea were also provided.P1010411

After a few refills of fatty pork, fried fish/chicken, curry and vegetables-  we finally allowed the waitress some rest and then it was dessert time..watermelon, some brown chunks of thingies and a bowl with  three compartment were brought to our table-the only familiar thing out of the three was the watermelon ! we asked the waitress to show us how to eat what was in the bowl. She took a small spoon, scoop up the green mushy fibrous looking stuff, then scooped the stringy stuff and the deep fried nuts and sesame. Then she passed me what was on the spoon. I took a bite and Voila ! I likeyy…this dessert is called Laphet – the mushy stuff is pickled tea leaves (I  wouldn’t have guessed !), the stringy bits were ginger shreds. The combination of the tea leaves, ginger and nut was a bit of sour, a bit of spice and then the fragrant and crunch of the fried beans and sesame seeds. The dark brown chunks which looked like blocks of belacan  turned out to be palm sugar- these were not sweet but slightly sourish – tasted like tamarind (asam) sweets and yet rich. W.Hoong made a funny face when he bit into it and keep on saying ‘sour sour sour’ and yet he kept eating chunk after chunk of these palm sugar and even took some with him when we left the restaurant..i think he liked these too much..P1010413

Aiyaaa alllaaa hooyaa mama…

The next stop…Ananda Paya…P1010416

This is a familiar sign that you will see at the entrance to the temples of Bagan – proper attire for the temples..P1010417

We walk through a hallway, past  the water station ..P1010418

And then we came to a  magnificent archway, two guardians and a peep of a massive statue..P1010419

The arch led us image of the south facing Buddha – Kassapa. We overheard a tour guide telling his charge that the architecture of this image is special because the smile of the Buddha changes from a slight smile to a fuller smile  when you move away from it..P1010422

The Buddha’s life were portrayed in the images that can be found in these corridorsP1010423

Ananda temple has four large Buddha image facing the four directions. The Buddha images are over 9 meter high and said to be made out of solid teak wood. Below is a picture of the north facing Buddha image –Kakusandha. On the left hand, the Buddha is shown holding something in his left hand. Extract from Wikipedia :  is shown holding, between the thumb and middle finger, a small nutlike sphere – a herb. This herb is said to symbolically represent the Buddha suggesting dhamma ( Buddhist philosophy)  as a cure for misery and distress.P1010426

The west facing Buddha – Gotama .Extracted from Wikipedia –  the abhaya mudra is displayed – with hands outstretched in the gesture of fearlessness. At the feet of this Buddha two life-size statues made in lacquer representing the crowned figure of King Kyanzittha kneeling piously in prayer, and Shin Arahan, the Mon monk who converted the King into Theravada BuddhismP1010430

After enjoying the coolness of the indoors, we venture out into the exterior of Ananda Paya. There is a legend behind the temple- extracted from Wikipedia : The legend associated with building of this temple ended in tragedy to the builders. Eight monks who approached the King Kyanzittha seeking alms gave a graphic description of the Nandamula Cave temple in the Himalayas  where they had meditated. When the king invited them to the palace to hear more details, the monks invoked their meditative psychic skills and vividly explained to the King, the landscape of the place they had lived. The King, pleased with this show of their skills, requested the monks to build a temple in the middle of the Bagan plains creating cool conditions in the temple. After the monks completed the temple construction, the King, in order to retain the uniqueness of the temple, got the architects (monks) killed to ensure that another similar structure was not built by them anywhere else.P1010441

 The pinnacle and the five terraces.P1010444

The temple has been fully restored following the damage from the 1975 earthquake. In 1990 , to celebrate the 900th anniversary of the contruction of Ananda Paya, the temple spires were gildedP1010462

While we were busy taking pictures around the temple grounds, an elderly man was standing a few feet away and waving at us and pointing at the spot that he is standing. We ignored him at first ( well, not sure what he was up to lahh), but finally we gave in, and we started to follow him around the scenic spots. And this is the spot where you can take a picture of the three stone lions…P1010445

And this is an original statue with the original paint work as old as the templeP1010454

Our communication with our incidental ‘tour guide’ was in English which involved a repetitive of  words like ‘ old, original,  take picture, good, hahahaha ‘ – limited conversation but I think we managed pretty well. After that little tour, we gave Uncle a small token of appreciation ( 1000K) and parted ways. Send Uncle our regards  if you see him at Ananda Paya..P1010459

We had strayed from the group and were running a bit it was rush rush to be in time to catch the sunset.P1010487

We had a small incident where a bag containing our shawls and sweater fell off  the cart onto the tarmac …luckily there weren’t any horsey  poo-poo on the road and we managed to retrieve the runaway bag sans horse poo poo..

On the way back to the guest house , the weather was getting kinda chilly and the sky was already dark and it was just a bit over 6 p.m. I had to use my shawl to keep away the cold. When we arrived at the guest house, we paid the driver 150,000K as rental for the day, bid Adieu to Osaka .See ya tomorrow !!

At first, nobody wanted to go for dinner- I guess we were tired and we did have a late lunch and the Myanmar buffet was rather filling…then after further discussion (and the not so attractive option of having bone dry biscuits for dinner), we decided to go for a stroll down the street to look for a place to  have a light dinner. We walked past a few shops and finally settled for Fuji Restaurant. There were a large variety of choices including Japanese food , we later found out that the owner is Japanese, hence the name ( although we were left wondering about the Doreamon sticker on the signboard)DSCN9996

AhPheeng had vermicelli plus egg for 110,000K. I ordered vegetarian noodles for  900K ( less than RM4), the serving was large with lots of vegetable.DSCN9991

W.Hoong ordered fried noodles- a very large heap of noodles to be exact. This was tasty but rather salty and oily.DSCN9990

Chunny ordered omelet for 700K.DSCN9994

After our dinner we walk past a second hand book shop which had only Burmese books on sale. We need to get some drinking water and stopped an the convenience store, they were priced at 3,000K for a 1.5L bottle- which was the same price at the guest house, but after some negotiation, we paid 2,500K…

Showered and got ready for bed. It felt as if we had been in Myanmar for many days, but this was just our second night here…Night night

After a hot shower and a bit of unpacking, we were ready to see Bagan..

Before our journey, we bought the  Bagan Acheaology Zone ticket for USD10 from the guest house. This  would enable us to go to all the sites in BaganBAZ

Our first stop was Shwezigon Pagoda. Once our cart arrived at the temple grounds and even before getting down from the cart,  a few ladies came to greet us and asked us ‘ where are you from ?’ and then introduced themselves , I remember the lady  that ‘escorted’ me introduced herself as LaLa, then we were given tiny colourful paper butterflies which were later pinned to our t-shirts and we were told that these were ‘ for lucky’. And when we reached the walkway to the temple, we were told to remove our shoes, and the ladies assured us that our shoes will be safe there. So, we left our sandals on the sand and walked on the walkway. Along the walkway were stalls selling lacquer wares, wood carvings, etc..P1010325

Two kids with thanaka painted on their faces..P1010326

History of Shwezigon, extracted from

The Shwezigon Paya was built in the 11th century by King Anawrahta (r. 1044-77), a recent convert to Theravada Buddhism. Anawrahta was Theravada Buddhism’s first major advocate in Myanmar and the first of the great builders of Bagan. The king had completed three terraces of the Paya when he was killed by a wild buffalo in 1077.

The king built Shwezigon to be a massive reliquary to enshrine a collection of relics, including the Buddha’s frontal and collar bones, a copy of the tooth relic at Kandy , Sri Lanka, and an emerald Buddha image from China. Legend has it that the site of Shwezigon was chosen by a white elephant.

The Shwezigon shrine was completed between 1086 and 1090 by King Kyanzittha (r. 1084-1113), Anawrahta’s successor. Kyanzittha was arguably Bagan’s greatest king and certainly one of its greatest builders: it was under him that Bagan became known as the “city of four million pagodas.” The Shwezigon Paya has retained to this day the essential shape it assumed on completion in 1090, which became the architectural prototype for many other stupas across Myanmar.

Like all Bagan monuments, this great pagoda has been damaged by earthquakes and other factors over the centuries. It has often been repaired, most notably by King  Bayinnaung (r. 1551-1581), and the devastating earthquake of 1975 caused extensive damage that necessitated repairs to the top of the dome and the spire.

The Shwezigon Pagoda itself is oriented to the east and is built of solid sandstone blocks. Its graceful golden “bell” reaches a height of 160 feet, supported on a square base 160 feet on a side, an octagonal intermediate base, and three square terraces.

The golden bell is decorated with various designs, encircled by several thick moldings, and is topped with the traditional jeweled hti (umbrella spire) to symbolize sovereignty. It is lit up impressively at night.P1010328

The surrounding structures were equally impressive


A Buddha image plastered with gold leaves…P1010333

I liked the look of this white looked like it was sporting  a center parting..P1010336

There were a lot of pigeons at the temple grounds and you could almost hear the  flapping of a thousand wings..P1010342

A reclining Buddha at the templeP1010347

Throughout our walk, we were occasionally approached by ladies wanting to pin ‘lucky butterfly’ on us. A lady who was carrying a child came up to me and wanted to pin another ‘ lucky butterfly’ on me, I declined but she was very insistent, I gave up, and she pinned the butterfly on me  and then started to follow me around and asked for money.. it had reached to a point of irritation- i gave her a packet of biscuit that I had in my bag and asked her to leave. I could hear her cursing under her breath. I removed all the butterflies on my t-shirt. #$%^%$*@#!$#

There was a special area that housed the images of the Nats –free spirits, a total of 37 in all . Extracted from    : Probably the most significant aspect of Shwezigon’s history is that it marked the first royal endorsement of the 37 nat (spirits), a central focus of Burmese religion before the arrival of Buddhism.

King Anawrahta placed 37 figures representig the nat on the lower terraces. Eventually the nats were moved from the terraces to a small hall southeast of the platform called “37 Nats.” This can still be visited (when it’s unlocked) and is an important shrine for Burmese pilgrims, but the sculptures are unfortunately not the originals. These were swiped by a collector and are rumored to be somewhere in Italy.P1010334

This is a father and son Nat pair.P1010355

When we get the chance, we do some eavesdropping –  try to pick up what the tour guides were telling their charges. There was an interesting site at the eastern side of the pagoda, where there was a tiny puddle of water, this was intentional , and the purpose was to allow the Myanmar monarchs to look at the reflection of the top of the pagoda without having to tip their head backwards. We had to adjust our positions and then hey, yes, we saw the reflection of the hti just like the monarchs did a few hundred of years ago.P1010337

After walking around for a bit, we completed our tour and proceed back to the walkway. Then the ladies came at us again, one girl came to me and said that my shoes were at her stall, I followed her, and true enough, my sandals were neatly arranged in front of her stall…Oh..this was getting sinister and I knew that my other three  traveling companions would be facing the same predicament. I put on  my sandals while looking over her stalls and asking her for the price of some of the items, but I couldn’t see anything that I liked, I apologized and left her stall, she tried to persuade me to get back to her stall but I was firm and  left.  I was hoping to find the rest of the guys at the exit but no sign of them, then I saw AhPhenng coming towards me, her feet bare and said that the other lady did not let her take her shoes, I followed her back to the stall and the lady was there, arms akimbo and she didn’t looked very friendly at all..oh err…we asked for AhPheeenggg shoes and lady said that she knew what we want and we promised to buy something from her stall, we tried to reason with her while AhPheennggg sneakily put on her shoes and then we fled…haha…and yes, we could hear some curses thrown at us…

Shwezigon was a beautiful temple, but our visit was marred by the bad experience with the shop ladies..P1010359

After Shwezigon..we continue with our journey, next stop – Htilominlo Temple .The picture you see below is taken from our horse cart, in the background is Htilominlo TempleP1010362

Htilominlo temple was built in AD1218 by King Nadaungmya, there is an interesting story behind the temple and why it was built , extracted from King Nantaungmya erected the temple on this spot because it was here that he was chosen, from among five brothers, to be the crown prince. Nantaungmya was King Narapati Sithu’s son. The selection of the heir to the throne had a tradition, which was to erect a white umbrella and the future ruler would be chosen when the white umbrella tilts in his position. After the event, it was decided by the state policy’s council.P1010379

The temple is three stories tall, with a height of 46 metres (150 feet), the temple was beautiful. The doorways feature nice carved reliefsP1010373

Sandstone decoration at the gateway to the temple.P1010363

We could only walk around the ground floor as the other floors were off limits. There were four Buddha statues, but I somehow missed one..P1010369

A high tech monk with his ipad..P1010364

Note the traces of old murals around the Buddha image.P1010366

A stall outside the temple selling puppets, wind chimes and other stuffP1010375

Across the road from Htilominlo temple was Upali Thein which is also known as Upali Sima, this ordination hall was built by a monk named  Upali in the mid 13th century, during the reign of King KyazwaP1010383

We walked around the Sima , this was one view from the temple P1010386

Another view..P1010387

I took a peak inside the hall and took a photo of the Buddha imageP1010385

When we arrived at the entrance, the care taker was there, it seemed that the place is usually kept under lock and key, Mr Caretaker let us into the hall- but no photography. He showed the remaining murals on the walls undamaged by the 1975 earth quake.

Extracted from –  The Sima was renovated during the reign of the Konbaung Dynasty in the late 18th century, which is when the mural paintings date from. They contain scenes of the Going-Forth of many of the previous Buddhas; other famous scenes from the Life of the Buddha, like his son’s Going-Forth and Ajita’s confirmation as the coming Metteyya Buddha; the Rains’ retreats; and the consecration of the Sima.

The building was badly damaged in the 1975 earthquake and has been roughly shored up to prevent collapse, though some of the paintings have been badly affected by the quake.

Another view of the rectangular SimaP1010388

After out visit to Upali Thien, W.Hoong made a request to the drivers that we want to visit temples that tourist don’t usually go to.. we pointed to an interesting looking square building and a tall looming wooden structure and said we wanted to visit these. We stopped at the main road and took a short stroll- off the beaten track – well, we couldn’t  see these structure mentioned on the Bagan map..

This looked like an abandon monastery ( our guess anyway)P1010390

We guessed that these cracks might have been caused by the fateful 1975 earthquake (?) The inside the building was overgrown with weedsP1010391

We walked further down the dirt road , we saw more structures that looked like they have been abandonedP1010393

Then we finally came up close to the magnificent wooden tower/house- this structure looked so different from the temples that we have seen  so far and was so grand and  outstanding that we couldn’t figure out why it was not marked on the map. Apart from the stone stairs – the rest of the structure was made of wood. What is this unknown building built for ? We were expecting someone to come up to us anytime to chase us off the premise ..but there was not a soul around….P1010400

We were mesmerized by the  intricate wood carvingsP1010396

Hello…anybody home ?P1010394

A lady with a child and  a basket- are they out to collect fire wood ?P1010397
stay tuned, next stop – Minochantha temple

When we arrived at the Yangon highway bus station at 6:30 pm , there were already a large number of people waiting inside the  shop where we brought the ticket. The ticket seller recognized us as we walked in. We pointed to the luggage we left at the shop in the morning and  start to repack our stuff and also did a bit of cleaning up at the bathroom to remove the dust we collected in Yangon throughout the day..

Before loading our bags onto the bus, they were tagged and we were given tags with the similar numbers. A bit before 7, almost everybody was already on the bus, and a few minutes after 7, the bus left the station and we were on our way to Bagan !

In  the seat pocket- we found :  a bottle of 1L drinking water and a vanity pack containing toothbrush + toothpaste and wet towel. The TV was on and it was showing a video of the temples of Bagan, beautiful- but it would have helped if it was in English..  The bus was full  and most of the passengers looked local. Apart from 4 of us, the only ‘foreigner’ were a Caucasian couple..and maybe the Caucasian might have thought that they were the only foreigners on board as we looked just like the locals…

Earlier when we were doing our walkabout with Uncle Chen, we saw a bakery and decided to buy some breads/ cakes for the bus journey, we bought these cakes which were soft and tasty.buns

The bus was going at a reasonable speed and it was a smooth ride…after about 2 hours, I was dozing off  sooner than i expected as my view of the TV was  blocked by the Caucasian guy sitting in front of me with his big hair-do. The TV started to show  a Myanmar movie and as half the screen was blocked by Mr Big Hair, I started to doze off…..

At about 3 hours on the road , the bus came to the resting area , there were already a few express buses parked there,  the place was huge.  The area was s well lit and the the temperature was getting a bit chilly There were a variety of eateries to choose from . …stopover

The setting was clean and tidy  with wooden chairs and table..can beat our R&R anytime !rest area indoor

I decided to try Mohinga – bee hoon served in fish soup – this cost 500K ( ~RM1.50). this was rather tasty , the soup base was slightly with a sourish tinge and the best part is that it was hot..just nice for a cool night.Mohinga

We were only given a 30 minutes break and after our meal, we rushed to the washroom ,  washed our faces and brush our teeth—time for sleep ! And I again observed that the toilets were clean with no bad odours.

One of the stalls at the rest areastall

After the short break, everybody got on the bus promptly..

I drifted in and out of sleep and woke up with a start when the bus came to a stop, I looked at my watch- it was 4 a.m, and everyone seemed to be busy packing and getting off the bus. OH ! we have arrived at  Nyaung U, Bagan ! Yayyyyy..

We got off the bus and felt  slightly disorientated- wow, it was coldddd…Brrr. While getting our luggage, we were surrounded by a sea of people offering to take us to our guest house –  on horse carts ! My heart gave a leap..Horse Cart..yabadaba doo…

The prices that were offered to us for the cart rides seemed rather inflated compare to the prices quoted in the guidebooks. We bargained and offered our price but that that didn’t seemed to go on well with the drivers and we found that we were being ignored and abandoned by the drivers who were now starting to drift away from us.….And the worse thing was- we seemed to be the only passengers that were left at the station, even Mr Big Hair was gone..It was a bit of a worrying situation, the drivers looked kinda menacing under  the florescent lighting at 4 a.m.

We pulled one fella aside and offered him 2,000K, and asked him to get  us 2 carts..after a bit of a discussion  amongst a few of them—our luggage were collected and loaded on to 2 horse carts. Getting on a horse cart was a bit of a trick , the light were dim and the steps was rather high…but soon we were trotting off to our guest house..Mr Horse Cart Driver said  that it was too early to check in at the guess house and suggest to take us for a Sunrise tour. We discussed about a 2 day ‘rental’ and he offered us a  18,000k/ day price – excluding  8000k for the sunrise drive. we had a bit of a horse cart to horse cart discussion with Chunny and W.Hoong who were in the horse cart behind us…their  driver seemed more honest and offered a price of 15,000K /day. After about 20 minutes, we arrived at the guest house – May Lar Khar …and we still hadn’t finalized the negotiation with the drivers. We seemed to have arrived at a deadlock and decided to change strategy and get Chunny to negotiate with the drivers while I took a back step. The guest house was open and allowed us to use the common washroom, but the rooms weren’t ready, we also saw 3 other people sleeping on the chairs waiting for their rooms.

After a few minutes Chunny and W.Hoong came into the reception area and said that the drivers had left in a huff and a puff. They had agreed to the 15,000K/day rental but did not agree with the 5000K fee for the sunrise tour. We were left on our own for the second time …boo hoo…We  walked up and down the empty street ( well, there was no where to go anyway)  hoping to find a horse cart driver but to no avail…after that we loitered around  the front gate of the guest house and then saw an empty horse cart passing by, we stopped the driver  and he offered the same price for the daily rental and after some bargaining , we got the sunrise tour for 3000K. Yayyyyyy…

It was about 5 something and we could hear chanting over the PA of some of the temples .  After sometime, we stopped somewhere in the darkness and the driver asked us to get down from the horse cart, I took a wrong step and fell from the horse cart to the (luckily) soft sandy ground- butt-first , Ouch..well, that definitely woke me up !

It was pitch dark and the driver removed one of his battery operated headlights and passed it to us..we made our way up some steps, we seemed to be going up the stairs of a stupa…and it was freezing….a hot cup of Milo would be  great. There were already about maybe 10 – 15  or so people that had arrived before us..and then all of us waited for the sky to lit up…DSCN9986

It was a long ( and cold) wait…

Slowly…the sky start to brightenP1010238


And colours chased away the darkP1010256


Some tourists climbed to the higher levels of the pagoda to get a better view.P1010244

More well to do tourist can go on the hot air balloons and view the sunrise while in mid picture below 3 of the balloons had taken off and there were another three ( the semi globes between the bushes ) still groundedP1010274

Wheeeeee…off they  went…….hot air balloons always reminded me of ‘Around the world in 80 days’ – the cartoon version  I used to watch when I was little. ( for those of you too young to know this,  I am not sure had Fogg and Passepartout seen Bagan though…P1010303

After enjoying the beautiful sunrise..we descended the stairs and explored Shwe Laik Tu Temple ..

Shwe Laik Tu Temple was built during the 13th Century, the original donor of this temple is yet unknown.

The images of the Buddha at the ground floor of the templeP1010312


We rode back to the guest house, and asked the horse cart driver to pick us up again around 10 a.m. When we arrived,  the rooms weren’t ready, we decide to walk down the streets and pacify our rumbling tummies..

Down the street, we found a tea-house, the place was crowded, we managed to find an empty table, we sat facing a little boy who was so enchanted with the National Geographic program shown on the overhead TV that he was shrieking and clapping with excitement, it seemed such a shame that we might be blocking his view, so we decide to change seats and sat at a table facing the road..a monk was also enjoying his cuppa at the tea shopP1010317

We saw samosas and yau char koay and decided to try these, the vegetable-filled  samosa cost less that 20sen apiece , and these were tasty ! The yauchar koay was not much different from what we got back homeP1010316

Tea ( Chinese tea) came in a pot and was free, AhPhenng wanted to try the local coffee…these were a bit diluted for her taste. The coffee was served with wedges of lime..P1010319

After studying the menu I decided to try the rice with vegetable and chicken , this cost a bit less than RM5, there were generous amount of vegetables plus slices of chicken, this was rather good !P1010320

Chunny and W.Hoong ordered fried rice, which came topped with a fried egg..


We headed back to our guest house. May Lar KharP1010701

We paid USD25/ night for our room, it was pretty comfy. With attached bathroom and hot water. we had air-con as well as a fan in the room. No TV though..P1010699

The contact details of May Kha Larmay khar lar

And in case you are wondering- this was what a horse cart looked like, in Bagan excluding the driver- the horse carts will only carry 2 pax . And one of us would be sitting beside the driver, and the other on the other end of the cart, facing the opposite sideP1010702

After this—Shwezigon Pagoda….