Posts Tagged ‘Luang Prabang’

After spending 4 wonderful days in Luang Prabang, it was time to say good bye. We will be leaving on the 9 am bus headed for Vientiane . We walked to the market in search for breakfast and settled for a bowl of pho at a stall beside the market.

 

This was the first time that we get to choose the type of noodles to have, either meehoon, koayteow or the laksa type thicker noodles, since we hadn’t tried the latter, both of us choose to have the thicker rice noodles, and as was customary, we get our basket of greens plus another plate consisting of chili padi, long beans, spring onions and lime.

 

This was probably the best pho that we had in Luang Prabang, the noodles were springy the soup was delicious ,  the meat was tender – no complaints ! We paid 10,000kip ( ~RM4 per bowl- which was the charge for foreigners as we saw locals paying 7,000kip/bowl)

 

As we still have some time, we took a walk at the market place and see if we can buy something for the road, we were curious what were wrapped in the banana leaves parcels and bought one of each (500kip and 1,000 kip respectively)

 

Walked back to the hotel and saw a tuk2 parked in front of our guest house, ahhh ! he is early, lucky we were all packed,rushed up to our room to get our luggage and settled the bill for our 5 night stay at Oudomsouk Guest House ( total USD40)

The tuk2 dropped us off at the Bannaluang bus station – nice and clean, no heavy fumes and the best thing was the toilets were clean !

 

While waiting for the bus, we decide to settle the mystery of the banana parcels : the 500kip parcel was a black blob- with a  chewy starchy texture probably made with glutinous rice flour and coconut milk – this was good ! after unwrapping 3 layers of leaves, we unveiled the the 1,000kip parcel , turned out to be black glutinous rice topped with some coconut milk creamy thingy (  it even came with a plastic spoon – so considerate one lah), again, another hit ! Yummy

 

At about 8:45, we were asked to get on the bus and at 9 am, the bus left the station, I wonder if buses in Malaysia are so prompt? The bus was rather empty ( I think there was only ~ 10 pax ?) and we could sit where we wanted to ( although seat numbers were written on the tickets) .

I find the bus journey  from Luang Prabang to Vientiane  much tougher that from Vientiane to Luang Prabang, namely because we didn’t have much time to get acclimatized to the bus and then we already came to the unending winding roads. I looked away as I saw someone sitting in front reaching for the plastic (vomit) bag…..

We stopped for lunch at a really nice looking restaurant ( lunch was included in the 130,000 kip ticket) at the hillside, the weather was very cool ( read : cold) and we could see the hills and the clouds as we have lunch.

Finaaalllly, after 9 hours on the bus, we arrived at Vientiane. We shared a tuk2 with some other passenger and headed to the city centre and back to the guest house that we stayed earlier – Sousouly Guesthouse…it’s nice to have some familiarity – I guess..

After a bit of a wash, we headed out for dinner – pizza at Via Veing – which according to some sites on the www – served the best pizza in Vientiene

The environment was nice and cozy , red table cloth draped over wooded table, some of the dinners seemed to be regulars, some came for takeaways as well

 

I ordered a soda lime and HC had a 7 up, and follow up with a sangria ( which caused a bit of a lightheadedness later )

 

For the pizza, we were greedy and went for the ‘4 seasons’ which have the most ingredients compared to the other toppings on the menu.

 

Total bill came to 45,000kip ( ~ RM18).  I won’t say it was sensational pizza, taste just like regular pizza we can get back home

It was a really really hot day in Luang Prabang, well, not that I will be cycling about in KL under the mid day sun – what a good excuse to have a fruit shake, after trying the various fruit combination, I think the best was still mixed fruit –dragon fruit, mango, pineapple, apple, orange etc etc. Some of the fruit shake stall will have the fruits cut and packed in the plastic cup, and we will just need to point to any of the cups with the fruit that you fancy and then they will blend that – add a bit of milk ( some add coconut milk too) , sugar syrup etc…heavenly….

After the refreshing fruit shake, we decide to hide from the sun by visiting the National Museum (former Royal Palace), a lovely building blending French and Laos architecture.

Read more about it here :  http://www.culturalprofiles.net/laos/Units/153.html

Extracts : Built by the French colonial government for King Sisavangvong between 1904 and 1909 on the foundations of a much older palace building, the former Royal Palace was taken over by the revolutionary government in 1975 and reopened to the public as a national museum on 13 March 1976.

We paid 30,000 kip each ( ~RM12) for the entrance ticket, lockers were provided to store our cameras/bags etc. The items on display include gifts from countries to the King, books from China ( gifts from 1968 – well, at this rate, I could be a museum piece too lah), the funniest we saw was a space explorer thingy gift from the US, which looked like it was made from milk tins- guess it was probably impressive at that time guarr ?

Behind the museum, there was a collection of motorcars used by the King and an art exhibition titled ‘The Floating Buddha’ – beautiful photos..a woman with hair just shorn, teardrops on her face, shorn hairs on her shoulder ; a hand rubbing flower petals on a young nun bald head and many more, felt my eyes watering looking at these beautiful pictures.

From the Museum, we cycled to Wat Mai Suwannaphumaham – built in 1796 by King Anourout, is  the biggest Buddhist temple in Luang Prabang. When I look at the structure , I was rather confused, as it seemed like one third of the temple is facing one way and the other two third is facing another direction

 

Well, turn out that it was  a very elaborate front veranda of the main sim. I was in awe of the elaborate black and gold stenciled columns at the veranda

 

We sat at the stone benches , taking in the view of the Wat Mai and then at 4pm, we saw 2 novice heading towards the drum tower. One started to beat on the drum and the other on a cymbal like equipment, it was a simple rhythm but rather mesmerizing, the drum beating activity must be tiring work, as they changed 3 novices within the 10 minutes.

Read more about Wat Mai here : http://www.orientalarchitecture.com/laos/luangprabang/wat-mai.php

 For dinner that day, we enjoyed a Laotian BBQ meal, which was rather similar to steamboat/teppanyaki combination. The stall is along the row of stalls along the Mekong bank, you won’t miss it as it’s one of it’s  kind around this region.

Firstly, load the charcoal

Pour enough soup into the holding area part of the ‘stove’ and rub some fat on the BBQ area

 

Cook the thinly sliced beef over the fire

 

We paid 40,000kip for the meal.Overall, I find this average only , more for the novelty of it than anything

 NB: if you have the chance try the banana fritters sold at this stall, they are delicious !

We saw some bikes for rent at the guesthouse opposite ours and when asked,  the owner said 20,000kip ( ~RM8), but after some negotiation, we settled for 18,000kip, these bikes were newer than the ones we rented the other day and were much more comfortable. So, off we went on our shiny new blue bikes…

We cycled  to Wat Aham ( which would have been a rather long walk) parked our bikes under the shade and walk about the grounds of Wat Aham. The temple was built 1818 onwards. Read more about Wat Aham here : http://www.orientalarchitecture.com/laos/luangprabang/wat-aham.php

The main sim.

 

The intimidating temple guardian- close up

 

From Wat Aham we walked across to the adjacent Wat Visounnarath (Wisunalat)

The main sim looked a bit different from the temples that we have seen around Luang Prabang which are normally brown and with low sloping roof. The temple was originally built ~ 1512 but was destroyed in a fire in 1887 and rebuilt in 1896. Read more about Wat  Wisunalat here :   http://www.orientalarchitecture.com/laos/luangprabang/wat-wisunalat.php

 

One other attraction at Wat Wisunalat is That  Pathoum, (Stupa of the Great Lotus), more popularly known as That Makmo ( Makmo = watermelon in Lao) because of its rounded dome, extract from same website above : The dome stylistically reflects a Sinhalese influence and is the only stupa of such a shape in Laos, and perhaps even in Cambodia or Vietnam. Originally erected between 1514 and 1515, it was destroyed during the Haw Black Flag incursion in 1887. The stupa sets on a number of different square tiers and has a Lao-Buddhist style Usnisa crown at its top.

 

We went on our bikes again , wind in our faces, and navigated ( HC navigated, i merely follow lah)  to Wat Ho Xiang ( Hosin), parked and locked our bikes at the curb and walked up the stairs between the impressive silver nagas

 

Closer look at the nagas

 

This somehow reminded me of the aliens from The Aliens movie

 

Wat Ho Xiang was built in 1705, this is the main sim. Read more about it here : http://www.orientalarchitecture.com/laos/luangprabang/wat-ho-xiang.php

 

From Wat Ho Xiang, we walked to the adjacent Wat That (Wat Mahatat)

 

Elaborate and colourful murals on the wall of the sim

 

 In the background is the Lan Na style stupa erected by King Say Setthathirath

 

Read more about Wat That here : http://www.orientalarchitecture.com/laos/luangprabang/wat-mahathat.php

 The heat was getting to us, we decide to head back to the guesthouse and have a rest. After a bit of a rest ( and a much needed bath), we cycled along the banks of the Mekong in search for lunch. The baguettes caught our eyes as we cycled passed the stall located at a corner, we gostan-ed and took a seat. It was a combination of 2 ( maybe 3) stalls, one selling baguettes, the other- grilled stuff and the third –noodles. The baguettes seemed to be just served with condense milk ( we might be wrong) , so we decide to go for a bowl of pho ( noodles) and have a side dish of grilled chicken

The variety of sauces and condiments at the table , including : fish paste, chili sauce, pepper, shrimp paste ( belacan), sugar, chili powder, etc

 

 Pho served with basketful of greens , the pho was tastier than the one we had for breakfast

 

Grilled chicken – hmm…this was good, tender and tasty..the Lao know their grills man !

 

Two bowls of pho + grilled chicken cost us : 35,000kip ( ~RM14). Nice…